#THERMADOR RANGE PRO#
Both the Bimmer and the Pro Harmony have something else in common: they look so good.ĭo you really need the Thermador Pro Harmony? Only you - and those for whom you cook-can honestly answer that question. Cooking everyday meals with this Thermador is a little like owning a BMW M3 and using it only to commute in stop-and-go traffic. Therein lies the problem with dropping such a large sum of money on such an appliance: You likely lack the Michelin stars necessary to get the most out of it. On the rangetop and in the oven, it demonstrated such accuracy and consistency in our tests that you'll have no one but yourself to blame if the braised short ribs come out overdone. Though its $4,599 MSRP is certainly steep, this range delivers performance worthy of its price. If you've got your heart set on a kitchen that could double for the set of a cooking show, allow us to recommend the Thermador Pro Harmony PRG304GH. Conclusion If any semi-pro range is worth the money, it's this one. Too cool for school and too cool for steak tips, it failed to reach a high enough temperature in our tests. Similarly, the infrared broiler seemed innovative, but also proved to be a disappointment. Cheaper, larger ovens routinely take less time. In convection mode, the oven performed similarly well, keeping temperatures smooth.ĭespite the excellent overall operation, we were a little disappointed by a sluggish, ten minute preheat-disappointing for a small 4.4 cubic foot cavity with a powerful 23,500 BTU/hr element. Other temperature settings weren't quite as satisfactory, as we found the keep-warm setting too cool and the maximum setting below the industry standard, but at least it steadily held those slightly inaccurate temperatures. This oven particularly excelled at the all-important 350✯ setting, displaying accuracy and lacking variance. It hit the proper temperatures and managed to stick to them on most settings including convection. Though it's small, this oven delivers a strong performance. It's like a race car without airbags or traction control: a precision tool for a truly competent user. A fifth burner and a self-cleaning function are among the other features that the Thermador lacks but some $1,200 ranges have standard. A continuous system of cast iron grates are on top, designed to accommodate large stoveware.įor all that metal, however, there's a curious lack of features. Take Thermador's trademark star-shaped burners (perhaps the inspiration for a certain character on Community?) which force flames towards the center of a burner. While it does look quite industrial with its small oven window, sturdy grates, and almost complete stainless steel finish, it does have some interesting design touches.
More than 25 years later, the solid, boxy follows this design tradition. Though they were originally installed under Reagan-era copper hoods, with tile countertops and whitewashed oak cabinets to match, the ranges themselves have remained largely unchanged-the timeless mark of a patrician kitchen. Way back in the mid-80s, semi-pro ranges started gaining in popularity. The beauty of this range lies in the details.
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